By Gareth Jones
      
      
      March 1935 
      
      
      In the
      fast few years we have heard much of the vices, which beset Japan, of the
      ruthlessness with which she seizes all that she desires, of the
      intolerance which animates her super-patriots, of the unfair methods which
      characterise a part of her business competition and of the militarism
      which is drenching her youth.  Is that, however, the whole picture? 
      Are there no redeeming features in the nation, which is amazing the world? 
      
       
      There are
      many, and I have selected seven Japanese virtues in order that our
      conception of Japan may be more balanced.  I do not deny that many
      accusations levelled against Japan are true.  I merely wish give some
      of my brighter impressions during a stay of five of weeks in Tokyo, in the
      countryside near Fujiyama and in Kobe. 
      
       
      The first
      virtue I have chosen is courtesy.  In the most remote villages while
      I tramped though those rugged Japanese mountains or along the magnificent
      coast of the Izu Peninsula, I was received with a charming politeness. 
      Fishermen who perhaps had never seen a white man before would go out of
      their way to show kindness to me, while the children, far from being
      terrified by the appearance of a stranger with white skin and eyes, would
      approach me with friendliness and a complete absence of fear. 
      
       
      It is not
      the average Japanese, but the pompous petty official who has been guilty
      at treating foreigners with suspicion as potential spies.  I found
      more laughter than mistrust.  Indeed. Japanese girls seem to spend
      their time preparing to giggle, in the act of giggling, or having giggled. 
      
       
      The Bath-house 
      
      
      The
      second virtue is cleanliness, which for many Japanese is more than
      godliness.  During my first day in Tokyo I went walking through some
      of the side streets when I saw a temple with curious gables.  Men and
      women in kimonos were entering its portals after taking off their
      clattering wooden clogs.  I approached the building, doffed my hat
      reverently, sat down on the wooden stairway at the entrance, pulled off my
      shoes and handed them to a temple servant.  He gave me a stick, on
      which were written Japanese letters: Ah!  Obviously prayer-stick I
      said to myself and expecting to see a great image of Buddha, I entered the
      building. 
      
       
      There was
      no smell of incense, there was no holy image, there were no dim lights;
      what I saw was a number of naked men splashing about in great baths from
      which the steam soared upwards in clouds. 
      
       
      My
      ‘prayer-stick’ was merely the number of the locker for my shoes; my
      temple was one of the thousands of bathhouses scattered through out Japan. 
      
       
      “Cleanliness
      is a religion for the Japanese,” I concluded after I had noticed
      everywhere the spotless of the homes and the love of the people for hot
      waters.  It is a boon to the traveller who after walking all day may
      enter a Japanese inn and wallow for hours in the luxurious warmth of the
      volcanic hot spring baths before squatting on the floor to eat with chop
      sticks fish, prawns and bamboo, while in one corner a delicately-arranged
      flower lights up the simplicity of the surroundings. 
      
       
      Love of Nature 
      
      
      This
      flower is a symbol of the-Japanese love of nature, the third virtue, with
      which is closely linked the artistic richness of their country.  On
      holidays the railway stations of Japan resemble those of Germany, for they
      are packed with ordinary folk who are going to spend a day in the
      mountains or along the coast, or who are taking the boat to the “Isle of
      Suicides,” where they may see someone in despair leaping into the
      boiling cauldron of the crater.  The beauty of views or the glories
      of a garden easily move them. 
      
       
      When I
      went to see the former Foreign Minister of Japan, Baron Shidehara whose
      life by the way, has been endangered many times by fanatics, he asked me
      what had impressed me most in his country.  I replied immediately:
      “The fascinating trees with their grotesque and poetic shapes.” 
      As I enlarged upon the delight with which I had seen the trees of Japan I
      noticed that his eyes become filled with tears and that for some minutes
      he could not speak.  Eventually he said: “I am moved by that. 
      If is curious also that Lord Grey said a similar thing when he came to see
      me and when we looked out at those trees near this lake.” 
      
       
      I learned
      later that tears of appreciation of nature come as easily to sensitive
      Japanese as does laughter. 
      
       
      Loyalty
      
      Loyalty
      to the State is the fourth virtue, and in this the Japanese resembles the
      Prussian soldier.  So far does this virtue go that it sometimes
      degenerates into a vice, for the claims of the nation are often followed
      at the expense of the family.  “Duty knows no family” is a
      Japanese proverb and a friend of mine who has lived for years in Japan
      commented in striking terms upon this: "I have many Japanese
      friends,” he declared to me, “but there is not a single one I could
      trust if any motive of patriotism came between us.  There is not one
      of them who would not poison me if their country were at stake.  And,
      what is more they would poison their families for their nation’s
      sake!” 
      
       
      Akin to
      loyalty is the fifth virtue, which I have chosen and that is
      self-sacrifice.  When I was in Tokyo a monument was unveiled to the
      “Three Human Torpedoes”, the men who had sacrifice themselves by
      placing themselves, during war operations, in torpedoes which they guided
      until they were killed. 
      
       
      The
      Japanese will tolerate an exceedingly low standard of living if they are
      thus serving the State.  There is also strong self-sacrifice among
      the Communists in Japan, who well-know that their fate is a cruel one if
      caught, but who still go on propagating the ideas of Karl Marx and know
      that they are braving an attack from merciless patriotic societies 
      
       
      Courage 
      
      
      This
      spirit of self-sacrifice breeds the sixth virtue physical courage. 
      In the character of the Japanese there is a strong element of
      dare-devilry.  Aviators have been known to take mad risks and even
      kill themselves by their daring in order that their families might receive
      a posthumous medal.  Is there, however, moral courage, the courage to
      brave the militarists among the middle classes and among the
      internationalist businessmen? 
      
       
      The
      seventh virtue, which is found among soldiers and among many young
      idealists, but unfortunately not among a section of politicians many of
      whom are corrupt - is a disdain for wealth, a respect for poverty, a
      Spartan devotion to hardship. 
      
       
      When I
      visited the conqueror of Manchukuo, General Araki former War Minister and
      a possible future Prime Minister.  I found him living in a simple
      cottage with a small garden at the end of an insignificant side-lane. 
      It was not the House of “His Excellency the Minister of War"; it
      was the house of a simple soldier who despised the goods of this world. 
      
       
      Perhaps
      that is the secret of Japan’s advance. 
      
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